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With turquoise waters, hidden waterfalls, and epic family adventures, Havasupai has it all. If you’re looking for breathtaking beauty, a little challenge, and the kind of memories that stick, this is the place.
When I first signed up for our Havasupai trip, my kids were six and eight years old, and we were far from wilderness-ready. Hiking eight miles into a canyon? Camping under the stars? It all sounded magical, like a scene from a movie where everyone happily skips along a trail. Except in real life, I had two small children, zero wilderness skills, and a mild panic attack. Thankfully, and I never thought I’d say this, COVID postponed our trip by three years. By the time we finally made it to Havasupai, my kids were nine and twelve, and we were armed with two wilderness basic courses, miles of hiking experience, and enough snacks to survive an apocalypse. We were ready!
The Never-Ending Road to the Trailhead
The drive to Arizona was a mix of excitement, road trip snacks, and hours of audiobooks. After a night at a nearby hotel, we headed to the trailhead the next morning. The last stretch of road was like driving into an alternate dimension. Straight. Endless. Empty. The kind of road where the GPS indicates: “in 168 miles, keep going straight!” But thankfully it was only 60 miles. And finally, the trailhead appeared. We parked, geared up, and began our descent. Adventure, here we come!
Day One: Descending Into the Canyon
The hike down was breathtaking, literally and figuratively. The towering red rock walls were stunning, and so was the growing realization that eight miles downhill wasn’t as easy as it sounds. The trail was fairly busy, as you’d expect at such a popular destination, and the mule trains only added to the crowd. We stepped aside to let them pass, marveling at the locals’ unique way of life. The mules were often followed by a few impressively muscular dogs that moved with the kind of ease that only comes from doing this trail daily
By mile four, my lower back reminded me it still existed. “Hey, remember me? I’m here to make this fun for you. Only 30 miles or so to go in the next four days! No big deal!” Luckily, I had my little green heat packs. I slid one between my pack and my back, and ah, instant relief. I could almost hear the angels sing.
But relief was short-lived. The second I took my pack off for a break, the heat pack would try to escape, bouncing straight into the mud like it was on a mission to sabotage me. Back pain? Back. Muddy heat pack? Reinstalled. Determination? Unshakable. And on we went!
After eight miles, we finally arrived at the lodge, exhausted, dusty, and ready to collapse. But by evening, our curiosity got the better of us, and we set out to find 50-Foot Falls, the closest waterfall to the village. We could see it from the trail above, shimmering like a prize in the distance. But instead of finding it, we found ourselves trapped in a tangle of bushes. Defeated, we turned back and declared victory just for making it to the lodge alive.
The Lodge and the Village: Dogs, Food, and Mule Madness
The lodge, nestled in the village, was a mix of cozy comfort and local charm. Its location made it easy to explore the small store and the restaurant where we ate like … very hungry hikers. The food was a much-needed break from the endless trail snacks we had been eating.
Then there were the mules. Most mule trains were led by experienced adults, calmly guiding their animals. But every once in a while, we’d spot a group of kids galloping ahead like they were in a canyon version of Fast and Furious, and the mules? clearly on a mission to get back home!
The village dogs, however, stole the show. They were everywhere, trotting around like they owned the place. One particular dog decided my sons were its new best friends and followed us everywhere. It was there to greet us at the lodge with tail-wagging enthusiasm… and also there to greet our breakfast on the table with even more enthusiasm. Watching my sons play with their new furry companion, though, was enough to make me forgive the lack of table manners.
Day Two: Mooney Falls, Chains, and “I’m Not Panicking”
Day two started with an easy two-mile walk along a dirt road to the campground. The campground itself was like a scene from a dream: a mile-long stretch of tents along a turquoise river. There were people everywhere, but the setting was so magical that it felt like a fairytale village. We followed the river to the top of Mooney Falls, and that’s where the real fun began.
Getting down to the bottom of Mooney Falls is both stunning and a test of bravery. Knowing the climb down was no joke, I had prepped my kids with several trips to the climbing gym. They handled it like little ninjas. My husband… well, let’s just say he bravely persevered and I was so proud of him!
The descent is basically part hiking, part Indiana Jones. It starts with a narrow path along the canyon wall, followed by a tight and dark tunnel, and finally the chains and ladders. Gloves were essential since everything was wet and slick from the waterfall mist.
I went first, placing my feet and hands carefully. My older son followed like a pro, guiding his younger brother. Together, we moved down the cliffside like the most nervous acrobatic team you’ve ever seen. At the bottom, the reward was pure magic: Mooney Falls in all its roaring glory.
From there, we trekked to Beaver Falls through lush greenery and shimmering blue pools. We crossed paths with a bighorn sheep and climbed up and down a few more improvised ladders and bridges. Ten miles and a long but beautiful day later, our legs were jelly, but our spirits were soaring.
Day Three: The Hunt for 50-Foot Falls and the Beauty of Havasu
Day three was redemption day for 50-Foot Falls. This time, we were ready to wade through the water, and we found it! It was glorious. Along the way, we encountered the little street vendor, or more accurately, dirt path vendor, a trail hero of sorts, selling frozen Gatorade. Ahhh, frozen heaven! My kids couldn’t get enough of it, declaring it the best trail treat ever. We also picked up some patches to proudly display on our backpacks and a dream catcher, which my husband, with surprising wonder, humorously described as “a squashed chick.”
We spent the afternoon at Havasu Falls, which quickly became my favorite. I couldn’t help but notice that every girl was striking the same Instagram-worthy pose. Naturally, my husband decided to copy them, nailing the look with his svelte confidence. Meanwhile, my boys went full 007, crouching and posing like they were about to launch into action. We swam, we laughed, and we took enough photos to fill a family album.
Day Four: The Climb Out
Our final day began at 5 a.m. The early start helped us beat the heat, and hiking in the cool darkness was almost…dare I say it… enjoyable. As the sun rose, the trail ahead lit up, and we pushed steadily upward.
By noon, we emerged from the canyon, sweaty, dusty, and victorious. Standing at the trailhead, we looked back at the vast canyon below, filled with pride and a deep sense of accomplishment. We did it!
Reflections on the Trip
Havasupai was everything we hoped for and more. The postponement gave us time to prepare, and the experience brought us closer as a family. From the jaw-dropping waterfalls to the village dogs with questionable table manners, every moment was unforgettable — even the muddy heat packs, slippery chains, and Instagram poses.
If you’re dreaming of a Havasupai adventure, here’s my advice: prepare well, embrace the chaos, and pack a sense of humor and lots of snacks. Every step is worth it, even the muddy ones.